Poppi

Poppi is a land of fairy tales, and one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. The town is an architectural gem, which you can visit all year round, with its castle, the colonnade leading up to the Badia di San Fedele, its walls, that hide secrets, history and legends. In spring and summer the streets are filled with scents, flowers, reflected light, voices and the songs of birds flying wildly over the battlements of the castle. All this makes the town a place to discover and explore.

A few kilometres away there are other places of interest such as; Badia Prataglia, the most populated town in the Casentino Forest National Park (Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi), a pleasant tourist destination, and the starting point of a constant cycle of excursions; Moggiona, the town of the ‘bigonai’ – barrel-makers for wine – and wolves; and Camaldoli with its Hermitage, a place of universal spirituality and a wealth of artwork unique to the world.

Vasari wrote ‘Pupium agri Clusentini caput’ under his fresco of the town in Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. Poppi was the most important stronghold of medieval Casentino, dominating from a hill that rises up halfway down the valley on the right-hand bank of the river Arno. It boldly overlooks all of the land that stretches towards Romena and Bibbiena, defying everyone. During the days when fog envelopes the hills like a white sheet, the battlements of the ancient castle of the Guidi shine in the light, reminding us that, if ever there was a need, it is still in control.

The amazing thing is that this extremely high commanding post remains visible from every part of the valley; a symbol of regal beauty domineering the panorama. It is not surprising that Poppi has been named one of the most beautiful towns in Italy.

HISTORIC CENTRE

The town centre is typically medieval and still has all of its original walls remaining. The castle was built in 13th century and is one of the most visited monuments in the whole province of Arezzo. Inside the castle, amongst the most interesting things to see are; the famous Rilliana library, which holds 25,000 antique volumes including manuscripts and incunabula, the ‘Salone delle Feste’ (Festival Salon), the tower which you can climb to the top of, and the chapel of the Conti Guidi with its 14th century frescoes attributed to Giotto’s pupil, Taddeo Gaddi. The castle was built by the brothers Guido Novello and Simone di Battifolle, who lived there with great pomp and splendour, so much so that the saying ‘you’re more at easethan the Counts of Poppi’ became a Florentine proverb. While it was unsettled in Florence, Guido Novello stripped the city of its arms and armour and used them to kit out the castle. Il Villani recounts that one day the count was showing his armour to his uncle, the Conte Tegrimo di Porciano, and asked him what he thought of it, to which he replied “It seems very good, but all I can say is that the Florentines lend things with high interest rates”. Never could words ring so true! In 1290, a year after the Battle of Campaldino, the Florentines once again entered Casentino and devastated the land of Guido Novello and the castle rebuilt by Count Guido di Battifolle. The original constructor was Lapo, ‘father’ of Arnolfo di Cambio, and according to Vasari, Arnolfo designed Palazzo Vecchio after the design of Lapo’s building in Casentino.

Another important place for those who love art and history is the ‘Abbazia di San Fedele’. As well as the impressive architectural structure built in 13th century, also worth admiring are the precious works of art preserved there, in particular a Madonna with Child from the end of the 1200s. Also interesting to visit is the church dedicated to Saints Marco and Lorenzo, and the ‘Oratorio della Madonna del Morbo’ with its hexagonal building and plan from the 17th century. In actual fact, the whole historic centre is worth a detailed visit as it is like diving into medieval life through the architecture of its buildings, and the elegant neighbourhoods, with their arches and narrow lanes. Entering the town through the ‘Porta Fronzola’ gate, there is the ‘Torre dei Diavoli’ (Devil’s Tower), aptly named due to its history linked to the goings-on of Contessa Madelda, who it is said, killed her many lovers.

Every year, in August, the “Gusto dei Guidi” is held in Poppi, an interesting event dedicated to Tuscan wine and typical local foodstuffs from the valley. By visiting Poppi during this occasion you are able to enter the fascinating interiors of old palaces, places of great beauty that are otherwise closed to the public.

WHAT TO SEE

Going from Ponte a Poppi towards Stia you will find the ‘Chiesa di Certomondo’. The church and monastery were founded in 1262, by Guido Novello and Simone di Battifolle, for the ‘Frati Minori’ monks, in gratitude for the Ghibellini’s victory at Montaperti. By strange coincidence, the places close by were then the scene of a battle in which the sorti of Montaperti were completely ruined rovesciate, otherwise known as the ‘Battle of Campaldino’ where the Guelfi and the Ghibellini fought in a deadly battle on 11th June, the day of Saint Barnaba, in 1289.

Campaldino is one of the most famous cemeteries in our history. Many important people took part in what is known as the most important medieval battle. Above all, Dante Alighieri, who was part of the Florentine ‘feditori’, the attacking troops. In the end the people of Arezzo were completely overruled, mainly due to the overwhelming numbers of the enemy. Another important partaker was Bonconte da Montefeltro, the resplendent head of the Ghibellini, who was under Papal control at the time of the battle. Receiving a deadly wound, he left the battlefield never to be seen again. But the mystery of his end remains in the memory of someone who was present that day and in a ‘canto’ of the Divine Comedy:

My frozen body near unto its outlet
The robust Archian found, and into Arno
Thrust it, and loosened from my breast the cross.

The whole area of the district of Poppi, which extends from the slopes of Pratomagno to the Appenine ridge, including the towns within, is very interesting. Above all Camaldoli, which is a universal place of worship, and a cultural and nature-filled destination. The ancient tourist destination of Badia Prataglia, with its beautiful old Abbey built at the end of the 10th century, is a place to visit and explore using its many paths, immersed in the ‘Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi (National Park of the Casentino Forests). Another mountain community in the region of Poppi is Moggiona, the ‘wolf-friendly’ town where they make ‘bigoni’, the barrels for wine. Further down is Lierna: the old part of the town is very interesting, especially the beautiful little church balanced on the top of a steep climb.

On the slopes of Pratomagno is the town of Quota with its well-kept narrow, steep and flower-filled neighbourhoods, a pleasure both to visit and for the heart. Camaldoli is worth a mention aside, being one of the most spiritual places in Tuscany, especially as the wave of Reformation by San Romualdo started here.