Bibbiena

Bibbiena is the largest and most populated town in Casentino, and historically the administrative centre of the valley. The origins of the district are very old, as demonstrated by the presence of numerous Etruscan settlements and Roman villas that have been rediscovered not far from the town centre. It’s foundations date back to 979 AD.

This district, and in particular the town of Bibbiena, has an important medieval history, which one feels in its villages and in its narrow, silent streets, even though the traces of that period of history are now few and far between due to the numerous ransackings that took place up until the end of the 15th century. Indeed, the last armed invasion of Casentino happened in 1498 when the Venetians, under the command of Bartolomeo d’Alviano, in alliance with the exiled Medici, carried out an unexpected invasion of the valley, capturing the De La Verna Monastery and taking possession of Bibbiena, in retaliation for the betrayal of Cardinal Dovizi and other inhabitants that were favoured by the Medici. Helped by the countrymen who carried out raids on the invaders, Florentine General Vitello, closed off the roads to cut off supplies to the enemy, enclosing them in Bibbiena, which he had placed under siege. With the arrival of winter Alviano only resisted in Bibbiena for another year. The Florentines demolished the town of Bibbiena as punishment for its infidelity.

Bibbiena has exceptional Renaissance architecture with many noble buildings, which can still be admired today. Amongst the most important are: Palazzo Martelli, Teatro Dovizi and Palazzo Niccolini.

THE HISTORIC CENTRE

The historic centre, or rather old Bibbiena, stands proudly on the summit of a hill, reminding us of its ancient splendour. At the highest point is Piazza Tarlati, a well-preserved architectural gem, with its small shops and cafes and a terrace, which offers a wonderful panoramic view, not to be missed during summer sunsets along with a stroll through the neighbourhood to sample sweet pastries and flat breads from the local bakeries to satisfy your taste buds.

In Piazza Tarlati there is a beautiful bell tower, recently brought back to life to ring out and keep track of the time, and Palazzo Bruni with its collonade, which was once the residence of the powerful Bishop Tarlati. Close by there is a church dedicated to Saint Ippolito and Donato, which houses important art works which should be admired, including a fifteenth century polyptych by Bicci di Lorenzo, a Madonna and child from the same century by Cola Da Camerino, a canvas from the beginning of 1600s by Jacopo Ligozzi, a painted crucifixion from the beginning of 1300s, and a wooden sculpture of the Madonna from the end of 1200s unfortunately now without its sacred Christchild.

PALAZZO DOVIZI

Wanted by Cardinal Bernardo Dovizi called Bibbiena, it was built after 1513 probably designed by the Florentine architect Baccio d'Agnolo and constitutes the most significant civil architecture of Bibbiena.

The building develops on three floors, with an architectural style recalling the Florentine models dated towards the end of the 15th century.

The facade should have been plastered but it remained in its rustic look with a visible mix of stones and Florentine typical terracotta. The door, with the arms of Cardinals Dovizi, and the windows of the first two floors have round arches. On the third floor the loggia, formed by elegant columns supporting a wooden lintel, occupies the entire front.

Inside a master staircase with a single ramp leads into the reception hall, vestibule of the Cardinal’s apartment, where you can admire a fine coffered ceiling in wood and a magnificent fireplace.

DOVIZI THEATER

The Dovizi theater (www.nata.it) was built in 1842 designed by architect Niccolò Matas.

Originally it had typical XIX Century characteristics with some classical references.

It has recently been completely renovated referring to the Baroque style of the Galli, the famous family of stage designers and architects also called the "Bibiena", which contributed for more than five generations, to build theaters and churches in various European courts.

WHAT TO SEE

You can experience a medieval fortified town here, with its surrounding walls and entrance doors, the most well known being ‘Porta dei Fabbri’ (door of the blacksmiths). From Piazza Tarlati you can make your way to Via Berni via steps that descend from the church. In Via Berni you will find the ‘Oratorio di San Francesco’, which has the only neoclassical façade to be found in Casentino and a Baroque style interior. Also located in Via Berni is Palazzo Niccolini, now the town hall.

Then, continuing along Via Dovizi, opposite the palace with the same name, is the ‘Chiesa di San Lorenzo’, which houses two precious glazed terracotta reliefs by Andrea Della Robbia: A nativity with the adoration of the shepherds and a “Lamentation of the dead Christ”. Not to be missed is the beautiful ‘Teatro Dovizi’. The theatre was built in the historic centre of Bibbiena as part of an initiative by the Academy of the Industrious and designed by the architect Niccolò Matas (1842). The theatre is characterised by a u-shaped plan, and three tiers of boxes and a stage running parallel to the street front. The theatre closed in 1982 due to safety concerns regarding the building’s structure. In 1997, as a result of a council authority initiative and the financial support of other public and private funds, the theatre resumed its activity after a considerable period of redesigning the interior and the installation of a new stage inspired by traditional Italian designs from 17th and 18th centuries, project designed by architect Massimo Gasparon. Since 2001 residency of the theatre has been granted to ‘NATA, Nuova Accademia del Teatro d'Arte’ (New Academy of the Theatre of the Arts), who have taken over its management and artistic direction.

MARCIANO

Marciano is one of the oldest castle along the Archiano Valley, older than Bibbiena's. It stands on the west hillside of Poggio Faggione, above the Gressa and the Archiano streams.

The castle is first mentioned in the donation to the Abbey of Prataglia (www.badiaprataglia.net) written by Elemberto Bishop of Arezzo in 1008.

The Ubertini Earls ruled from XII to XIV century, until 1386, when the Florence Signoria declared that the fortress of Marciano, along with other fortresses in Casentino…were of no use to the Florentine Republic…and it commanded to raze them to the ground.

Marciano has also the old church of San Donato, which became parish by a Bishop's decree on July 30th 1777.

GRESSA

The ancient Castle of Gressa (www.castellodigressa.it) is located on the top of a rocky spur whose side is wet by the homonymous ditch Gressa, a confluent of the Archiano river.

The Castle of Gressa was built by the Bishop Elemperto, head of the diocese of Arezzo (986-1010), between the X and the beginning of the XI century . Around 990 the castle was given “in feudum” to Tedalascio, a wealthy Casentino nobleman and was later inherited by his sons, who in 1078, donated it to Rodolfo, Prior of the Monastery of Camaldoli (www.camaldoli.it).

In 1249 the Bishop Guglielmino Umbertini sent a list of indulgences from Gressa and there are reasond to believe that he had the right to mint coins. In 1257 the same bishop gave the Castle of Gressa as pawn to the Florentines, to pay back some of his debts. Nevertheless the Florentines pulled down the two walls in 1259.

In 1299 Ildebrandino, successor of Guglielmino, sent a seal from the castle of Gressa with which he granted the Countess Sofia (Abbess of Pratovecchio and his paternal aunt) the transfer of the relics of St. Hilary from the Pagliola Church to the Monastery of Arezzo.

After the death of Bishops Ildebrandino and his successor, Guido from Pietramala, the manor was taken by Pier Saccone, lord of Arezzo, who returned it to Boso Ubertini after the Treaty of Sarzana. In 1356 the castle was besieged by the Florentines, but except for a short period, it remained property and residence of the Bishop and the last Castle of Casentino to remain so.

In 1366 Gressa was ruled by Arezzo and then became part of the Florentine territory in 1384.The formal act of submission to Florence was signed on August 21, 1386.

In 1500 the castle became property of the Martellini family, then it passed to the Nati family, then it was the turn of the Nati Poltri and finally the Marcucci Poltri. During the Second World War the castle became a military German outpost.

Today we can still see the watch Tower and part of the two boundary walls, as well as the Bishop's Palace, now a private residence. Between the two buildings stands the ancient church that has become a parish with the name of St. James.

SERRAVALLE

The castle of Serravalle is mentioned for the first time in the Annali Camaldolesi in 1188 and from the beginning, that the Annals trace back to the work of Amadeo Bishop of Arezzo, its fate was closely tied to the events of the Camaldolese’s congregation and the nearby Abbey of Prataglia (www.badiaprataglia.net) whose Abbot held the fief starting from the middle of the XIII century. During the XIV century the aggregate was further fortified with internal formwork and tower; in the early years of the fifteenth century it was annexed to the Podesta of Bibbiena under the hegemony of the Florentine Republic, then passed to the Medici and the Lorena Grand Dukes of Tuscany and finally to the Italian State.

With the birth of modern tourism, in the early '900, Serravalle reached its maximum expansion and international reputation being considered one of the most exclusive health resorts of Italy and destiny of the new post Grand Tour travelers. It was chosen as a holiday resort by many personalities and in particular by a certain part of the roman aristocracy, among the most famous visitors, H.R.H. Prince Vittorio Emanuele III, H.R.H. Filiberto of Savoia Duke of Pistoia, Cardinal Vannutelli, Benito Mussolini, the Minister Giurati, the Minister Fedele, members of Parliament Balbo and Bodrero.

Also Gabriele D'Annunzio stayed in Serravalle with the beautiful Eleonora Duse who went through the town’s streets on a gig. Guests of Layer Eugenio Coselschi in his villa, which the poet called Archianella and wrote two verses for, "Clarescit aethere claro - Ascensu levior" that are carved out of the main entrance.

Serravalle owes much to the philanthropic work of Egisto Paolo Fabbri, nephew of homonymous banker partner of Morgan, who financed many important public works. He built the new church because the old one, located in Piazza della Vecchia Chiesa (Old Church Square), had collapsed. Instituted the singing school run by the Mantellate nuns and set to the Ward method, disclosed in Italy thanks to Fabbri. The fame of the Schola Cantorum of Serravalle attracted students from all over Italy.

In 2012 Serravalle was awarded "Meraviglia Italiana” (Italian Beauty), a project sponsored, among others, by the Ministry of Heritage and Culture, who selected our town for an itinerary of excellence along with other 1000 Italian beauties.

PARTINA

The town of Partina is perched on a hill along the Rimaggio creek, just above the confluence with the Archiano river.

The town is built around an ancient castle and there are documents dating it back to 1095.

The castle was totally restored in the early years of the 20th century; still some original parts remain today and can be seen.

In addition to the castle and the ancient village, Villa Rosa Scoti, is another interesting place to visit, with the adjacent square, and the aristocratic Chapel of Santa Rita, recently restored and donated to the municipality of Bibbiena (www.comunedibibbiena.gov.it).

Just outside the village, along the road to Bibbiena, lies the ancient church of Santa Maria, built around the eleventh century; abandoned in ruins for years, it has been recently restored and turned into a private residence.